I stayed at one of the most expensive lodges next to the Serengeti National Park, where I fell asleep to lions roaring by my $2,585-a-night tentNEWS | 18 December 2024I spent three nights at Singita Sabora Tented Camp, a luxury lodge in Tanzania.
While it was technically a canvas tent, the lodge was filled with high-end amenities.
My safari experience included welcoming staff, delicious food, and endless animal sightings.
The moment the bush plane touched the runway at the Sasakwa Airstrip in Tanzania, I knew the safari experience at Singita Sabora Tented Camp would be different.
Just 20 minutes earlier, I was at the Seronera Airstrip in Central Serengeti. I joined dozens of safari vacationers waiting for flights out of the national park. I met airport staff at plastic tables, where my name was crossed off a sheet of paper and I was handed a ticket with my flight number written in pen. Among the groups of tourists and safari guides, porters bustled about carting off luggage.
As my plane barreled down a dirt runway, I waved goodbye to a parking lot of 20 safari vehicles and guides waiting for the next batch of tourists.
When I landed at Sasakwa, things were quiet. A serene tent sat empty. Plastic chairs were swapped for cushioned couches. Restrooms were not only stocked with toilet paper but also perfumes and bug spray.
If this was the airstrip, I wondered what Singita's accommodations were like. I quickly discovered the answer.
Singita owns some of the most expensive lodges in the region — a night at Sabora, for example, starts at $2,045. Business Insider received a media rate for a three-night stay. Along with that cost came a safari vacation filled with endless animal sightings, delicious food, and more.
The main lodge at Singita Sabora Tented Camp. Monica Humphries/Business Insider
The Singita lodges sit in the Grumeti Reserve
After disembarking the plane, my guide for the morning, Yusef, heaved my 30-pound backpack into our open-air Toyota Land Cruiser, and we were off to Sabora Tented Camp — one of Singita's three lodges in the area.
Yusef gave me a quick rundown: Singita has exclusive use of the Grumeti Reserve, a 350,000-acre private concession on the northwestern border of the Serengeti National Park. The reserve is managed by the nonprofit Grumeti Fund in partnership with Singita . Within the concession, Singita operates three lodges and four private villas and camps.
Minutes later, our conversation was interrupted by a herd of giraffes. As we turned another curve, Yusef pointed to a buffalo carcass. Less than two miles down the road, we spotted another.
It was my fifth day in the Serengeti, but it was my first time seeing a dead animal without swarms of vultures or hyenas. Yusef read my mind.
"Welcome to Grumeti," he said. "There's such an abundance that predators don't even need to finish their kill."
A herd of giraffes in the Grumeti Reserve. Monica Humphries/Business Insider
For the next four days, I saw that abundance firsthand. I spent the rest of my time with guide Peterlis Kibwana. With so much land and so few people, we rarely encountered other visitors during our game drives.
We checked in on hyena puppies one evening and sipped sunset drinks near a herd of zebras the next. We observed countless elephants and giraffes, spotted lions, and tracked down hippos.
The animals were incredible, but so was Kibwana's guidance. After learning that I had been in the bush for five days and seen popular African animals, Kibwana shifted our focus to the creatures people sometimes miss on a safari.
Side-by-side animal sightings during the reporter's stay at Singita. Monica Humphries/Business Insider
On our first afternoon, we pulled over to watch a leopard tortoise scurry through the grass. We gasped as we spotted a martial eagle fly away with its prey. Kibwana identified countless birds: grey-breasted spurfowl, Coqui francolin, and superb starlings. Watching these smaller animals offered a new perspective on the Serengeti.
Each game drive ended with drinks in the bush. As the sun dipped below the horizon, I battled a mix of emotions: I didn't want to leave the wildlife, but I knew I was heading back to one of the most luxurious properties I'd ever visited.
The exterior of the reporter's tent. Monica Humphries/Business Insider
The Sabora camp consists of nine canvas tents
Singita's properties, which range in cost, are some of the most expensive lodges in the region. For instance, its newest lodge, Milele, costs upward of $35,000 a night.
In 2024, guests at Sabora paid between $2,045 and $2,975 per person, depending on the season. I visited during October, where rates were $2,585 a night. The price includes meals and beverages, daily game drives, laundry service, and road transfers between the Sasakwa airstrip and the lodges.
I was surprised when I arrived at my canvas tent for the first time.
From the outside, the tent is simple. Canvas panels stretch across a metal frame. From the front, there aren't any windows into the tent, and the space didn't look particularly large.
Stepping inside was a different experience. The open-concept tent was far larger than I had guessed. The back walls of the tent were a combination of screen and glass, ushering in plenty of sunlight.
A bedroom area had a large bed and two leather chairs. There was a kitchenette and living area, along with a closet and a massive bathroom with a two-sink vanity, standing tub, and shower. Attached to the tent was an outdoor shower, meditation platform, daybed, and alfresco dining area.
"The style and design here is very straightforward compared with other lodges," Hamisi Abdi, Sabora's assistant lodge manager, told me one morning. "It's a tented camp, but it's in a modern vibe."
The interior of the reporter's luxury tent. Monica Humphries/Business Insider
What stood out was the attention to detail. Local art was featured on the walls, a stocked pantry offered sweet and savory snacks, and bathroom amenities like bath salts and toothpaste were within arm's reach.
It was impossible not to relax. Between a comfortable bed and chamomile tea waiting for me after dinner each night, my three nights at Singita was the best sleep I had during my 20-day trip.
A view of Singita Sabora Tented Camp. Monica Humphries/Business Insider
Abundance defined my stay
As I left Singita after my third night, I reflected on Yusef's original mention of abundance. It was everywhere at Singita.
Beyond game drives, wildlife can be spotted throughout the day since Sabora is unfenced. On two of my three nights, I safely encountered lions prowling the grounds — once with a guard and the second seated in the dining area.
Abundance continued outside my tent. The lodge's main camp had plenty of places to relax. Each evening, guests gathered around a communal fire to sip cocktails and share stories from the day.
In the morning, tables were placed in the grass for breakfast and lunch. A small pool with daybeds was nearby, and a fitness center and spa were a short walk away.
The all-inclusive dining was also impressive. Singita's executive chef, Mia Neethling, explained that the lodge's kitchen revolves around a "deli" concept. Throughout the day, a small deli was stocked with salads, fruits, yogurts, desserts, fresh juices, and drinks so guests could dine at the lodge, in their tents, or out in the bush with their guides.
Plated meals were also served three times a day, with ingredients grown by farmers in nearby villages.
The reporter's lunch one afternoon at Singita. Monica Humphries/Business Insider
My days were filled with highlights beyond the traditional game drive. I spent a morning on a guided walk through the bush and an afternoon visiting the nearby community, both of which have additional costs. If my stay had been longer, I could've commissioned a hot air balloon ride, booked spa treatments, and spent longer at the pool.
It wasn't just what Singita offered; it was how they offered it. At times, it felt like the staff could read my mind. Shafuu, my waitress, quickly learned my taste preferences and made suggestions, like trying the fish fritters. Another night, the lodge's sommelier picked wine pairings for each course of my meal.
Three days passed by too quickly, and as I sat on a wicker couch waiting for my flight out of Sasakwa, I reflected on what made the lodge worth the price.
Hearing lions roaring at night and antlers colliding in the morning from my king-sized bed was magical. Eating meals cooked with passion was unforgettable. And getting into the bush with Kibwana was thrilling.
"We were in such a beautiful place," Kibwana told me. "That's what makes this place so special."
I couldn't agree more.Author: Monica Humphries. Source
